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June/July 2008

Soup to Nuts!... Shortbread

In this feature, we offer up a slew of gourmet goodies that run the gamut from cocktail nibbles to spirits to sweets and everything in between. Each issue, we round up a bunch of samples of a particular product and then offer reviews on our favorites. We have no dog in this fight - we're open to trying just about anything, and we try to be as objective as possible. Sometimes the results surprise even us!

This issue, we've raided the grocery store shelves for shortbread. It's one of our favorite cookies -- perfect to go with that afternoon cup of coffee that sees us through the rest of the day. And although we love homemade shortbread best, let's face facts -- we don't always have the time to play Betty Crocker.

For years, we've gravitated to one of the red tartan clad brands -- Walkers to be exact. There's another, though (Campbells), along with a slew of other choices available these days. So in the interest of finding the ones that comes closes to homemade, we started tasting. Here's the scoop:

Walkers Pure Butter Shortbread Triangles ($4 for 15 cookies). Still darn good -- it's hard to go wrong with these. With nice richness, some crunch, and loads of buttery taste.

Central Market Pure Butter All Natural Shortbread Triangles ($3 for 15 cookies). These are sort of an upscale generic replica of the Walkers triangles, and we have to say -- they're nearly as good. They taste only slightly different, but they also seem lighter and have more of the homemade melt-in-your-mouth quality. Impressive.

Butterkist Shortbread Cookies/Biscuits ($1 for 20 cookies). Clearly the deal of the tasting, but not really shortbread, and nothing even remotely like homemade shortbread.. These are more like animal crackers, really. Not that there's anything wrong with that -- in fact, these have a potato chip quality that make you want to eat the whole package in one sitting. These also contain some artificial ingredients, if that kind of thing matters to you. (It does to us.)

Shortbread House of Edinburgh Finest Shortbread Original Recipe ($4.25 for 8 cookies). Really interesting -- and the most pie crust or pastry-like of the bunch. Layers of flaky, melt-in-your-mouth... crunch. The crunch is the part that makes them unusual. Turns out they contain ground rice, which is definitely unusual, and must be what give them a Nestle Crunch-like thing. But they're good.

Nikki's Cookies Key Lime Shortbread Cookies with Almonds ($6 for 15 cookies). The key lime oil really jumps out at you here, both in aroma and taste. And although we sometimes put some citrus zest in our homemade shortbread, this just tastes too flavored. The thing about great shortbread is the wonderful delicacy they offer, verging on blandness, to be honest. This just tasted like key lime -- fine, if you're looking for a key lime cookie. But not exactly our cup of tea when it comes to shortbread.

Starr Ridge Pecan Shortbread Cookies ($3.50 for 12 cookies). This one is appealing for its intense nuttiness, and for the contrast of the coarse sugar topping and the tinge of salt -- love the salty/sweet thing. And we could happily eat these with our coffee... But again, not anything like homemade shortbread. But, like the Key Lime version above, that's probably not what they're going for.

Rachel Gaffney's Lemon Zest Shortbreads ($7.50 for 9 cookies). Again, the lemon zest appealed to us, but for the most expensive cookie of the tasting, it was pretty disappointing. A little bitter, frankly. And the ingredients list citric acid, which we felt like we could taste. Would have to pass on these.

Biscottea Chai Tea Shortbread ($5.50 for 10 cookies). Nobody would mistake these for homemade shortbread, but they sure are tasty. We typically like Chai-spiced things -- all those cinnamon, cardamom, clove, ginger combinations just make us happy. If you agree, you'll love these. And they're equally good with a cup of good Indian Chai tea as they are with coffee, we might add!

Campbells Shortbread Biscuit Selection, Plain and Chocolate Chip ($9 for a tin of 12 cookies). The chocolate chip ones are odd -- a combination that just didn't work for us. But we loved the plain ones -- our favorites of the tasting. Even better than the Walkers, to be honest, though it was close. These had the right balance of rich buttery goodness, just a hint of sweetness, and a spark of salt. Delish.

 

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