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June/July 2008

Italian Connection - Gruppo Mezzacorona

Whether it's sipping Frascati at the Pantheon piazza in Rome, watching the beautiful people promenade around the fountain... Or savoring a luscious bottle of Chianti in a cozy Florence trattoria. An extravagant picnic in Sienna featuring a Super Tuscan. Classic Venetian fish dishes with a white wine from Gavi or Soave. Exploring the classic wineries of Piedmont or relaxing by Lake Como with a glass of... anything! Italy is synonymous with outstanding wine, great food, and la dolce vita. It also happens to be one of our favorite place in the world and the home of some of our favorite wines.

Heading out to meet with Mezzacorona winemaker Lucio Matricardi, I resolved to be in and out of there in about 30 minutes. There was no meal involved, I was leaving town the next morning, and it was Valentine's Day - evening plans needed attention.

Two hours later, I reluctantly pulled myself away from the table. (Valentine's Day turned into a DVD with popcorn…) Matricardi's enthusiasm and passion about his wines and, even more importantly, the regions his wines come from - was irresistible.

First some background… Although Mezzacorona is widely known for its affordable, available Pinot Grigio - that is only a part of the larger picture. Founded in 1904, Gruppo Mezzacorona encompasses some 6,000 acres in Trentino-Alto Adige, as well as about 700 acres in Sicily.

The Pinot Grigio comes from Trentino-Alto Adige, as do the Rotari label wines. Rotari includes a range of metodo classico (the Champagne method) sparkling wines that offer outstanding quality at amazingly affordable prices.

In Sicily, Matricardi focuses on both indigenous grapes (Nero d'Avola, Grillo and others) and international varieties like Chardonnay and Syrah.

The diversity within the Gruppo Mezzacorona portfolio makes generalizations difficult, but there does seem to be a common theme: fresh, clean, fruit-driven wines at prices that are about half what you might guess in a blind tasting.

Here are a few examples:

Rotari NV Rosé Brut Trento ($12). Fresh, lively, fragrant, with berry and nectarine fruit laced with brioche and a touch of citrus. So easy to like, and at an amazing price. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Rotari NV Arte Italiana Trento ($12). A great deal on a delicious Italian bubbly, with ripe, crisp apple and peach aromas and flavors, a smooth, medium-bodied finish, and a toasty character that lingers nicely. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mezzacorona 2003 Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva ($16). Very nice, with some grip beneath the lush blueberry, floral and light toasty oak notes. Medium-bodied with a fresh finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mezzacorona 2001 Teroldego Rotaliano Riserva ($27). Elegant, complex wine, with medium-bodied blackberry and currant fruit accented with smoke and wet earth. Generous, focused finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mezzacorona 2004 Hekate Sicilia Passito Feudo Arancio ($36, 500 ml). Lovely dessert wine offering toasty walnut accents to the sweet fig and baked pear fruit and a long, lingering finish. 70% Moscato, 15% Chardonnay, 15% Sauvignon Blanc. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

 

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