Robyn's Picks -- ABC vs. CWD

Chardonnay seems to have become quite the divisive wine over the last few years. In one camp, we have the ABC folks. These Anything But Chardonnay squawkers are a vocal bunch, freely pontificating on the evils of overoaked, sweet, rich, unbalanced Chardonnay. (Often, we might add, while happily sipping on a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc that has been sweetened for the exporting to the American market, but hey, that's another article…)

In the other camp, our camp, we have the CWD believers. These enlightened arbiters of taste and good sense recognize that there are indeed Chardonnays Worth Drinking. They understand that Chardonnay is considered one of the great, even noble, wine grapes and that, when grown and handled in the right ways, can make some of the best wines in the world.

And not just in Burgundy, where the range of fantastic Chardonnays is obviously impressive - from steely Chablis to rich Montrachet, and much in between.

There are plenty of CWDs to be had from California - even though the ABC-ers would have you believe otherwise. (Have you noticed that the ABC types never have much to say about Chardonnay from Burgundy? Or Australia's Margaret River region or Yarra Valley? Or Argentina's Upper Mendoza? Further evidence of the laziness of the ABC movement, if you ask me…)

So here's what. Since the proof is in the pudding, as they say, I recommend you pick up any one of the following CWDs. Serve chilled with boldly-flavored fish, shellfish or poultry, and see if you don't want to join us in the CWD camp. (It's the cooler camp - we have better t-shirts and we hardly ever lose at softball.)

Alma Rosa 2006 Chardonnay Santa Barbara County ($20). Pretty aromas and mouthwatering tropical citrus flavors are the star here, with juicy apple, toast and cream playing a subtle role in the background. Long, juicy finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Beringer 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley Private Reserve ($35). Lovely balance here, with rich pear and baked apple fruit on the one hand, and bright citrus, mineral and spice on the other - all folding into a smooth, complex, vanilla-laced finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Beringer 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley Sbragia Limited-Release ($40). Truly a luscious wine, with rich lemon curd, ripe fig, caramelized vanilla, pear, roasted hazelnut, cream and spicy oak notes that are all supported by enough brightness and acidity to carry it off. Long, complex finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Calera 2006 Chardonnay Mt. Harlan ($25). Quite stylish, offering rich, elegant, ripe pear laced with fig, lemon zest, mineral and toasty hazelnut notes that linger on the generous finish. Rich, but nicely balanced. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Robyn's Picks 06/08) Locate this wine online or in your area.

Far Niente 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($56). Smooth, opulent, aromatic tropical melon is laced with bright citrus zest, wet stone, and spicy oak that all linger on the long, fleshy finish. Very nice now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Markham 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($21). Bright and juicy, and not at all heavy, with tropical citrus and melon fruit accented with tart lime zest and a dash of mineral. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Mayacamas 2005 Chardonnay Napa Valley ($35). Fresh and crisp, offering lemon zest and distinct minerality accents to the focused green pear and fig fruit, picking up subtle touches of spice on the concentrated finish. Appealing now but will age nicely for at least another five years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Paul Hobbs 2006 Chardonnay Russian River Valley ($45). Very pretty, floral and tropical fruit aromas and flavors, including melon, mango and honeysuckle that are full-bodied and evolve through the generous finish. Rich but clean style. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Pine Ridge 2006 Chardonnay Napa Valley Carneros Dijon Clones ($33). Pretty nectarine aromas and flavors are layered with lemon curd, toasty oak and a touch of fresh mineral on the smooth finish. Ready to drink now. Locate this wine online or in your area.

Sbragia Family Vineyards 2006 Chardonnay Dry Creek Valley Home Ranch ($26). Beautifully aromatic, offering fresh-cut citrus, ripe pear, marzipan and light smoky notes that repeat on the palate, along with fig and spicy vanilla that linger on the full finish. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. Locate this wine online or in your area.

And here are a few ideas to get you going on the food front:

Cajun Pecan Catfish
Lemon Chicken with Rosemary & Sage
or your favorite grilled shrimp!

Robyn Tinsley is the managing editor of the Wine Skinny.