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August/September 2008

Wine Review Archive - France, Burgundy (Red)

Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé 1996 Musigny Cuvee Vieilles Vignes ($350). You simply won't do better than this supple, elegant wine. Blackberry, cherry, harmonious florals, and a silky, generous finish combine to make an unforgettable Musigny. Needs time though, give it about ten years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Domaine Leroy 1997 Richebourg ($650). No, it's not a typo. That's the price. And if any young wine (that, by the way, is drinking now) could be worth that kind of money, it just might be this one. This is one of those wines that you taste and think, "How did they get all those flavors in there?" Beyond the classic Pinot flavors lies a wealth of sensuous, almost mysterious, notes. Feels like walking along a Turkish spice bazaar. Somebody peel me a grape. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Domaine Rebourseau 1996 Chambertin ($N/A). Vivacious, sophisticated, velvety. Great Pinot juiciness. Elegant finish. Not at all bad now, but will be at its best in a few years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti 1996 Richebourg ($275). Incredible. Flowery fruit, a bit of anise and tangy acidity, velvet glove tannins, this one is a showstopper. Somehow, this legendary Domaine has produced a wine that is fantastic now and will continue to be this good, or even better, for the next quarter century. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Domain Michel Picard

Domaine du Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet 2000 St.-Aubin Rouge Le Charmois ($26). Soft and uncomplicated, but still pleasant, this red Burgundy shows smooth red berry and delicate herbal notes. Ready to drink now. (Weekend Wine, 08/02)

Domaine du Chateau de Chassagne-Montrachet 1999 St.-Aubin Blanc Le Charmois ($28). Crisp and focused, with refreshing apple and pear fruit, accented with citrus and mineral notes. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Weekend Wine, 08/02)

Dominique Laurent

1997 Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes ($30). I particularly enjoy red Burgundies, and Dominique Laurent makes some beauties -- many costing into the hundreds of dollars. However, this 1997 is affordable and powerful. Served with grilled salmon in a Zinfandel reduction sauce, the strong fruit and oak of the wine were a wonderful match. The finish was strong and spicy. A wine that could cellar for a few more years. I highly recommend it. (Weekend Wine, 09/01)

1996 Chambertin ($130). Wow, this is a blockbuster. If you're looking for a classic example of Chambertin terrior, and price is no object, then this is the wine for you. Velvety Pinot Noir flavors with an earthy core, knock-you-silly tannins, and a fabulous fruity finish combine to make this a terrific wine. Needs time in the bottle -- check back in about ten years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Henri & Gilles Remoriquet

1998 Nuits-St.-Georges Les St.-Georges ($49). Aromatic bouquet that includes lots of spice and wet earth leads to ripe red cherry and raspberry flavors layered with spice, vanilla and smoke. Soft finish loses intensity rather quickly. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Bousselots ($43). Rich vanilla bean and chocolate scented red raspberry and plum fruit flavors are soft and pretty, with a moderate finish that lingers nicely, picking up slight herbal notes along the way. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years.

1999 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Damodes ($41). Delicious, with full-bodied, concentrated black cherry and currant fruit layered with smoke, tobacco, and wet earth. Complex, full finish. Very good now and over the next five or six years.

1998 Nuits-St.-Georges Les Allots ($41). A "wow" wine, with full-bodied, rich black currant and berry fruit laced with wet earth and integrated spices. Loads of acidity plus great big tannins add up to an age-worthy wine. Decant for enjoying now - should age beautifully for ten years or more.

Joseph Drouhin

1996 Chambertin ($99). A spicy, even peppery, example of this wine. Very much enjoyed the juicy fruit up front, and the balance that the spiciness gives. Tough tannins at this point, but in a few years -- five to ten -- it ought to be very nice indeed. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

1998 Musigny ($175). I personally love the generous vanilla flavor that mingles with this Pinot Noir, even though not everyone would consider that desirable in a Musigny. Nice spicy blueberry on the finish. Drinking very nicely now and should continue for the next few years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Dujac 1996 Morey-St.-Denis ($43). Fabulous wine from my hands-down favorite Morey-St.-Denis producer. Excels in the earthy, meaty flavor that this appellation is known for. Wonderful cherry, a touch of spice, and a lasting finish add up to a fantastic wine. Excellent now (with just a bit of breathing first) and should continue to improve over the next three to five years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Gros Frere & Soeur 1997 Richebourg ($184). Hard to find, but worth it. This is a beautiful example of terroir, with a spicy floral current balancing the smooth berry of the Pinot grape. Lingering finish, but big tannins will require some age, probably ten years, or so. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Louis Jadot 2005 Pinot Noir Bourgogne ($20). A lot of wine for the money, with concentrated, chewy red currant and plum fruit accented with tobacco and spicy oak. Ready to drink now and over the next couple of years. (Splurge Wine 02/08)

Laboure-Roi 2000 Vosne-Romanee 1er Cru ($48). Deeply colored, with a concentrated red berry and herbal bouquet. Ripe red berry also dominates the palate, with star anise and spicy oak layers. Ready to drink now and over the next year or two. (Splurge Wine, 04/03)

Michael Lynch 2001 Sauvignon Blanc Bordeaux ($9). Heck of a deal on this refreshing French white. Juicy apple and passion fruit flavors are deftly balanced with herb and fig notes. Delicious finish. Ready to drink now. (Bargain Wines, 12/02)

Ponsot 1996 Morey-St.-Denis Cuvee des Alouettes ($90). Plenty of pure Pinot flavors like cherry, red berries, and violet dance around on the palate in this beautifully full wine. Characteristic firm tannins and finish mean this wine will age very well, at least five to ten years. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Jacques Prieur 1997 Musigny ($180). Well, hello gorgeous. Gee, I think I've said this before, but if you want a classic example of a Musigny at its best, and price is no object, pick yourself up a bottle of this beauty. Elegant cherry, currant, blackberry flavors. A musty dampness underneath. Harmonious. Balanced. Lingering finish. This wine is coming into its own and should be ready to drink in just a year or two. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

Jean & Jean-Louis Trapet 1997 Chambertin ($100). Excellent wine from one of my favorite producers. Sophisticated Pinot fruit flavors marry beautifully in this very well-balanced wine. Outstanding length. Best from 2008. (Skinny Guide to French Wine, 04/00)

 

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